Welcome to the discussion forum of Ða Engliscan Gesiðas for all matters relating to the history, language and culture of Anglo-Saxon England. I hope it will provide a useful source of information, stimulate research, and be of real help. Ða Engliscan Gesiðas (The English Companions) maintains a strictly neutral line on all modern and current political and religious matters and it does not follow any particular interpretation of history. Transgression of this Rule will not be tolerated. Any posts which are perceived as breaking this Rule will be deleted with immediate effect without explanation.

Author Topic: Anglo Saxon Costume - From the ground up.  (Read 14326 times)

Wulfric

  • Guest
Anglo Saxon Costume - From the ground up.
« on: August 09, 2010, 02:41:50 PM »
Dear All,

I am starting this thread in an effort to create a costume for living history which is as accurate as can be assembled. To do this I wil need peoples ideas and opinions whether they are based on hard academic research or or other valuable expierience. I invite all constructive comments and suggestions as any relevant comment could open discussion which proves beneficial.

My primary goal is to produce a costume for a Saxon thegn (that is of southern England) of the 10th Century. As this is one of the most commonly reenacted periods one might assume that this should be easy however I don't want a costume that is the result of generally accepted stereotypes. I want a costume that when asked about any part of it I can reference the evidence that allowed it to be included. Though if these turn out to be the same everyones efforts will not have been wasted as at least I hope everyone involved will benefit for the knowledge shared.

While I have my own primary goal I also invite anyone who cares to to do the same for any other Anglo-Saxon costume concept no matter what social standing, era or gender. I only ask that to avoid confusion any posts are clearly labelled with the costume concept they are relevant to.


Thanks in advance for all of your help.

Wulfric

  • Guest
Re: Anglo Saxon Costume - From the ground up.
« Reply #1 on: August 09, 2010, 03:34:30 PM »
Saxon Thegn 10th Century.

My costume concept so far is:
•Leather ankle boots in the turn shoe style with bone toggles.
•Naalbinding socks.
•Woollen hose, from ankle to upper leg single leg style. (dark charcoal)
•Woolen winningas. In the puttee style with herringbone weave.
•Woollen braes. These currently stop just below the knee where they are well inside the hose and about the same level as the top of the winningas. (currently, black, maroon and grey)
•Linen under tunic with close fitting coughs and keyhole neck. It also has slits up the sides of the legs which allow freedom of movement. (white)
•Woolen over tunic same pattern as under tunic. (madder red).
•Leather belt, thin, buckling toward left hip with dangling belt end.
•Sheathed seax slung from belt across front of body.
•Sword in scabbard hanging from belt left of body.
•Cloak over all, likely pattern needed.

Advice on saxon style jewellery and clothing decorations would be very much appreciated.

My clothes so far are entirely made of wool or linen and I would very much like for them to all be of realistic colours for the dyeing processes at the time.

My first questions are;
•Are braes and single leg hose accurate for this period or are they a later style?
•Were winningas always in the puttee style or could they be a rectangular piece of cloth wrapped round and tied in place?
•Ought the slit of the keyhole be laced up?

Please ask any questions of the kit. Someone else may have to answer them as I don’t have many answers and that is why I’m asking for help. :)

Wulfric.

Wulfric

  • Guest
Re: Anglo Saxon Costume - From the ground up.
« Reply #2 on: August 11, 2010, 03:05:27 PM »
Come on folks no need to be shy, somebody must know something about AS costume, maybe a bone to pick over stereotypical representations, some glaring mistake in the above description... anything?

Well a point that's come to my attention is the appearance of knee length items that seem to occur on some manuscripts (any pictures of these would be greatly appreciated).

Brief discussion last night came up with the idea of them being gaiter type pieces of cloth wrapped round and bound with garters to the lower leg, or.... knee length stockings, possibly footed. Both of these options seem plausable but both raise the question; were any braes or other clothes worn on the upper leg?

peter horn

  • Hlaford
  • ****
  • Posts: 365
Re: Anglo Saxon Costume - From the ground up.
« Reply #3 on: August 11, 2010, 05:06:23 PM »
Wulfric

Have you seen "Dress in AS England" by Owen-Crocker
and "Cloth & Clothing in early AS England" by Penelope Walton Rogers"?
These are the books that the LHG members read
Peter


Come on folks no need to be shy, somebody must know something about AS costume, maybe a bone to pick over stereotypical representations, some glaring mistake in the above description... anything?

Well a point that's come to my attention is the appearance of knee length items that seem to occur on some manuscripts (any pictures of these would be greatly appreciated).

Brief discussion last night came up with the idea of them being gaiter type pieces of cloth wrapped round and bound with garters to the lower leg, or.... knee length stockings, possibly footed. Both of these options seem plausable but both raise the question; were any braes or other clothes worn on the upper leg?
Ic ∂ær ær wæs
Ic ∂æt ær dyde

Wulfric

  • Guest
Re: Anglo Saxon Costume - From the ground up.
« Reply #4 on: August 11, 2010, 05:33:57 PM »
Many thanks I shall definitely look into those.

In the mean time I still welcome people's opinions...

peter horn

  • Hlaford
  • ****
  • Posts: 365
Re: Anglo Saxon Costume - From the ground up.
« Reply #5 on: August 14, 2010, 05:36:54 PM »
I should like to draw attention to a very good leaflet on appropriate clothes for the AS done by Matt our Education  officer. See on frontpage of Website, under "About the Anglo-Saxons" and under "Clothes" the leaflet in question.
Peter
Admin
Ic ∂ær ær wæs
Ic ∂æt ær dyde

Wulfric

  • Guest
Re: Anglo Saxon Costume - From the ground up.
« Reply #6 on: August 15, 2010, 11:41:41 AM »
Having read this and saved the .pdf to my PC I whole heartedly agree. Anyone looking at my thread and feeling they don't know the first thing about AS costume should definitely start here.

They may then also wish to visit the Regia Anglorum site, go into articles and read the following; Braid weaving, Embroidery techniques, Textiles and finally Wool and Stuff. Also in the members area (which is open for all to see) there are several Online Handbooks, One called Basic Clothing, and another called Saxons. When you get to page 22 of 40 it picks up discussing costume of the different social classes and also what patterns may have been used for different practical reasons.

Less extensive is also the Basic Kit Guide to be found in the resources section under guides on The Vikings society site.

Once armed with such a wealth of knowledge people may then wish to use the discussion forum for discussion in order to develop understanding through sharing interpretations or perceptions gained from personal expierience.

steve pollington

  • Guest
Re: Anglo Saxon Costume - From the ground up.
« Reply #7 on: August 15, 2010, 11:46:49 AM »
10th c. belt buckles in Winchester Style are usually quite broad (about an inch/25cm) so the belt would probably be as wide as that or even wider.
Strap ends in the same style are also found, so a display belt with tooling and complementary metal fittings seems likely.
MS illustrations often show the sword on a baldric rather than a belt, but these are not necessarily drawn from life. 11th c. Bayeux tapestry shows belts IIRC.
Male costume often includes a disc brooch. For 10th-11th c. the enamel disc with satellite lobes is normal, but nummular types are also found.
Braies - no direct evidence but the vocabulary is present in OE.
Winningas - MSS show puttee style wraps with complicated lattice patterns over the top. Metal tags with hooked ends are evidenced but laces or simply tucking the ends in is likely.
No evidence for buttonholes/lacing but absence of evidence is not evidence of absence.
If you want details for earlier periods or pictures of examples, let me know.
Regards

Wulfric

  • Guest
Re: Anglo Saxon Costume - From the ground up.
« Reply #8 on: August 15, 2010, 02:55:02 PM »
Wow, now that's what I call a post.

Thankyou Steve! That gives me a lot to work with. Any pictures of examples, especially AS artwork, would be greatly appreciated. As I originally stated I'm looking, as much as possible, to be able to explain reasons for my entire costume to educate members of public and, dun dun dun, fend off authenticity officers. To do this effectively I will need to be able to reference sources be they archaeological finds or contemporary AS artwork.

Indeed an early period costume is in mind as a future project, that said I can begin hording any information given now to get it off the ground faster when it starts.

Thanks again!

steve pollington

  • Guest

Jayson

  • Hlaford
  • ****
  • Posts: 303
  • Knowledge is of no use unless it is passed on...
Re: Anglo Saxon Costume - From the ground up.
« Reply #10 on: October 07, 2010, 09:43:11 PM »
---Right, so that has (literally) covered a Thegn, but what about the wife of a Thegn?   How would she be dressed and how would her hair be dressed?
Wessex Woman

peter horn

  • Hlaford
  • ****
  • Posts: 365
Re: Anglo Saxon Costume - From the ground up.
« Reply #11 on: October 08, 2010, 05:33:30 PM »
I see that under 'education' on our own website, Matt has detailed the clothes for men & women during each part of the AS period.
Peter
Ic ∂ær ær wæs
Ic ∂æt ær dyde